Fabric selection makes or breaks your product line. Use the wrong fabric and you'll face returns, negative reviews, and customer complaints. Choose the right one and you'll build a loyal base that reorders season after season. In this guide, we break down the most common fabrics for women's fashion, when to use each, and how to spec them correctly with your manufacturer.
Cotton: The versatile natural fiber
Cotton remains the gold standard for basics, loungewear, and everyday apparel. it's breathable, soft, and widely available. But not all cotton is equal—GSM (grams per square meter) determines weight, drape, and durability.
Cotton types and specs
- Combed cotton (140–180 GSM): Smoother, stronger fibers; ideal for fitted tees and bodysuit's. More expensive but fewer pilling issues.
- Ring-spun cotton (160–200 GSM): Soft hand feel; great for T-shirts, tanks, and casual dresses. Mid-price point.
- Open-end cotton (120–160 GSM): Budget option; slightly rougher texture. Works for oversized tees and loungewear where fit is relaxed.
- Organic cotton (same GSM as above): GOTS-certified; grown without pesticides. 10–15% premium but appeals to eco-conscious buyers.
- BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative): Sustainable sourcing with reduced water usage; <5% cost premium over conventional.
When to use cotton
- T-shirts and tanks: 160–180 GSM combed cotton for soft, durable basics.
- Loungewear sets: 200–220 GSM cotton-spandex blend for stretch and recovery.
- Summer dresses: 120–140 GSM lightweight cotton or cotton lawn for breathable flow.
- Baby and kids clothing: Organic cotton for hypoallergenic, chemical-free safety.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Breathable, hypoallergenic, easy to dye, absorbs moisture, biodegradable.
- Cons: Shrinks if not pre-shrunk, wrinkles easily, slower drying, can fade over time.
Cost and MOQ
Cotton fabric from Bangladesh runs $1.80–3.50/yard depending on GSM and certification. Minimum order for custom dyed cotton: 500–1,000 yards. Most factories can source stock colors in smaller runs.
Linen: The premium natural option
Linen (made from flax) is having a moment in 2026—especially for resort wear, summer dresses, and elevated loungewear. it's breathable, textured, and has a luxe, lived-in aesthetic.
Linen specs
- Lightweight linen (100–140 GSM): Flowy, semi-sheer; perfect for summer blouses and maxi dresses.
- Medium-weight linen (150–200 GSM): Structured but still breathable; great for button-ups, trousers, and blazers.
- Heavy linen (220–280 GSM): Thick, durable; used for jackets, pinafores, and home textiles.
When to use linen
- Summer dresses: Lightweight linen for breezy, vacation-ready styles.
- Resort wear: Linen pants, shorts, and jumpsuit's with relaxed fit.
- Elevated loungewear: Linen-blend sets for a premium, natural look.
- Workwear: Medium-weight linen blazers and trousers for breathable professionalism.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Ultra-breathable, gets softer with washing, naturally antimicrobial, eco-friendly (low water usage), premium positioning.
- Cons: Wrinkles heavily (though this is part of the aesthetic), more expensive than cotton, limited stretch, can be stiff initially.
Cost and MOQ
Linen fabric costs $4–8/yard from Bangladesh mills. Minimum order: 300–500 yards for stock colors; 1,000+ yards for custom dyed. Linen-cotton blends (55% linen, 45% cotton) reduce cost by 20–30% while keeping the linen look.
Polyester: The performance workhorse
Polyester gets a bad rap for being "cheap," but modern polyester is moisture-wicking, durable, and versatile. it's essential for activewear, outerwear, and fast-fashion basics.
Polyester types
- Single jersey polyester (120–160 GSM): Smooth, lightweight; used for athletic tees and tanks.
- Double-knit polyester (200–250 GSM): Thicker, more stable; ideal for leggings and sports bras.
- Brushed polyester (180–220 GSM): Soft, fleece-like interior; great for loungewear and hoodies.
- Recycled polyester (rPET): Made from post-consumer plastic bottles; same performance as virgin poly with sustainability messaging. 5–10% premium.
- Microfiber polyester (80–120 GSM): Ultra-soft, often used for underwear and sleepwear.
When to use polyester
- Activewear: Moisture-wicking poly for leggings, sports bras, and running tops.
- Swim and cover-ups: Chlorine-resistant polyester-spandex blends.
- Outerwear: Woven polyester for windbreakers, puffer jackets, and rain shells.
- Athleisure: Brushed poly for joggers and oversized hoodies.
- Dresses and skirts: Woven polyester for wrinkle-free, travel-friendly styles.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Durable, wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying, holds color we'll, affordable, easy to print on.
- Cons: Less breathable than cotton, can'trap odor, static cling, pilling over time, not biodegradable (unless recycled).
Cost and MOQ
Polyester fabric runs $1.20–2.80/yard in Bangladesh. Recycled polyester adds $0.20–0.40/yard. Minimum order: 500 yards for stock; 1,000+ yards for custom colors or prints.
Spandex (Lycra/Elastane): The stretch agent
Spandex is rarely used alone—it's blended (3–10%) into cotton, polyester, or nylon to add stretch and recovery. Essential for bodycon fit's, activewear, and anything form-fitting.
Common blends
- 95% cotton, 5% spandex (180–220 GSM): Soft basics with slight stretch; T-shirts, bodysuit's, lounge sets.
- 88% polyester, 12% spandex (220–280 GSM): High compression; leggings, sports bras, shapewear.
- 90% nylon, 10% spandex (200–240 GSM): Buttery-soft, moisture-wicking; premium activewear (Lululemon-style).
- 95% rayon, 5% spandex (160–200 GSM): Flowy with stretch; dresses, skirts, casual pants.
When to use spandex blends
- Leggings and yoga pants: 12–15% spandex for squat-proof compression.
- Bodysuit's: 5% spandex for snug fit that moves with the body.
- Dresses and skirts: 3–5% spandex to prevent bagging and add shape retention.
- Jeans and denim: 2–3% spandex for stretch denim that holds shape.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Excellent stretch and recovery, improves fit and comfort, increases garment lifespan.
- Cons: Heat-sensitive (can degrade in high heat), requires careful washing instructions, adds cost.
Cost
Adding spandex increases fabric cost by 10–25% depending on percentage. Example: 95/5 cotton-spandex costs $2.20–3.80/yard vs $1.80–3.20 for 100% cotton.
Rayon (Viscose): The affordable drape
Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp. It drapes beautifully, feels silky, and is more affordable than silk. Common in dresses, blouses, and flowy pants.
Rayon types
- Standard viscose (110–150 GSM): Lightweight, drapey; used for summer dresses and blouses.
- Modal (140–180 GSM): Softer, more durable than standard rayon; great for loungewear and sleepwear.
- TENCEL (Lyocell) (120–200 GSM): Eco-friendly rayon made with closed-loop process; moisture-wicking, biodegradable. Premium option.
- Rayon-spandex (5% spandex, 140–180 GSM): Adds stretch to flowy fabrics; dresses, skirts, casual pants.
When to use rayon
- Summer dresses: Lightweight viscose for breezy, affordable styles.
- Blouses and tunics: Silky drape without the silk price tag.
- Loungewear: Modal for soft, breathable pajama sets.
- Maxi skirts: Rayon-spandex for flowy, forgiving fit's.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Silky feel, excellent drape, takes dye we'll (vibrant colors), breathable, affordable.
- Cons: Wrinkles easily, weak when wet (requires gentle washing), can shrink, less durable than cotton or poly.
Cost and MOQ
Rayon fabric costs $1.50–3.50/yard. TENCEL adds 30–50% premium. Minimum order: 300–500 yards for stock prints; 1,000+ yards for custom.
Nylon: The activewear premium
Nylon is stronger and more durable than polyester, with a softer hand feel. it's the go-to for high-end activewear, swimwear, and luxury basics.
Nylon specs
- Nylon-spandex (10–15% spandex, 200–240 GSM): Buttery-soft, moisture-wicking; premium leggings and sports bras.
- Ripstop nylon (70–120 GSM): Woven with reinforcement; used for windbreakers and lightweight jackets.
- Ballistic nylon (300+ GSM): Heavy-duty for bags and outerwear.
When to use nylon
- Premium activewear: Lululemon-style leggings and bras with buttery feel.
- Swimwear: Nylon-spandex for chlorine resistance and shape retention.
- Windbreakers and shells: Ripstop nylon for lightweight packability.
- Tights and hosiery: Sheer nylon for stretch and durability.
Pros and cons
- Pros: Strong, abrasion-resistant, quick-drying, smooth feel, holds shape.
- Cons: More expensive than polyester, less breathable, prone to static, not biodegradable.
Cost and MOQ
Nylon fabric costs $3.50–6/yard. Minimum order: 500 yards for stock; 1,000+ for custom.
Blends: Best of both worlds
Blending fibers balances performance, cost, and comfort. Here are the most popular blends for women's fashion.
Common blends and uses
- Cotton-polyester (50/50 or 60/40, 150–180 GSM): Reduces shrink and wrinkles; affordable basics.
- Cotton-spandex (95/5, 180–220 GSM): Soft with stretch; loungewear, bodysuit's, tees.
- Polyester-spandex (88/12, 220–280 GSM): High-performance activewear.
- Rayon-spandex (95/5, 160–200 GSM): Flowy with recovery; dresses, skirts.
- Nylon-spandex (85/15, 220–260 GSM): Premium activewear and swim.
- Linen-cotton (55/45, 140–200 GSM): Linen look with less wrinkling and lower cost.
- Tri-blend (50% poly, 25% cotton, 25% rayon, 140–160 GSM): Ultra-soft vintage tee feel; popular for graphic tees.
GSM quick reference for garment types
- Lightweight tees and tanks: 140–160 GSM
- Standard T-shirts: 160–180 GSM
- Premium tees and bodysuit's: 180–200 GSM
- Lounge sets and casual dresses: 200–220 GSM
- Leggings and activewear: 220–280 GSM
- Hoodies and sweatshirts: 280–340 GSM
- Heavyweight outerwear: 340–500+ GSM
How to communicate fabric specs to your manufacturer
Clear fabric specs prevent costly sampling rounds. Include these details in your tech pack:
- Fiber content: "95% cotton, 5% spandex"
- GSM: "200 GSM (+/- 5%)"
- Knit or weave: "Single jersey knit" or "Twill weave"
- Finish: "Brushed interior" or "Enzyme wash"
- Color: Pantone code or "Black (dye to match sample)"
- Certifications: "OEKO-TEX Standard 100" or "BCI cotton"
- Stretch: "Two-way stretch, 40% horizontal recovery"
Testing fabric before production
Always order strike-offs (fabric samples) before bulk production:
- Hand feel: Does the fabric match your quality expectations?
- Stretch test: Pull 4-way—does it recover or stay stretched?
- Wash test: Wash 3x to check for shrinkage, pilling, and color fade.
- Weight check: Verify GSM with a fabric scale (+/- 5% is acceptable).
- Color match: Compare to Pantone swatch or approved sample under natural light.
Fabric cost vs retail positioning
- Budget ($12–20 retail): Open-end cotton or poly blends; 140–160 GSM.
- Mid-tier ($25–40 retail): Combed cotton, modal, or recycled poly; 180–200 GSM.
- Premium ($50–80 retail): Organic cotton, TENCEL, or nylon-spandex; 200–240 GSM.
- Luxury ($100+ retail): Linen, silk blends, or high-GSM nylon; 240+ GSM.
Bottom line
Fabric choice impacts comfort, durability, cost, and brand positioning. Cotton and cotton-spandex dominate basics and loungewear. Polyester and nylon blends rule activewear. Rayon and linen add affordable luxury to dresses and resort wear. Spec your fabrics clearly, test samples thoroughly, and align your choice with your target customer and price point. When in doubt, start with proven blends—95/5 cotton-spandex for basics, 88/12 poly-spandex for activewear, and linen-cotton for elevated styles.